Wine and Food on Both Sides of the Channel through the Eyes of Alexandre Dumas and The Three Musketeers
Part 2,
where goblets and roads lead us from taverns to royal feasts
The first part can be read here
“If gastronomy is the measure of culture, then wine is its ultimate standard” —
Alexandre Dumas
The Story of the Goblet in Dumas’s Era: What Swirled in the Musketeers’ Pitchers?
🤖 In the 17th century, French glasses were filled with simple, young wines — unpretentious yet full of character. They smelled of earth, sun, and the road. In these “honest” wines, the Musketeers found not only flavor but also strength for new adventures.
By the time of d’Artagnan and his friends, the wine map of France was taking shape, though not yet as we know it today. So what would typically be poured into the pitchers on their table?
→ Bordeaux (Claret)
At the time, Bordeaux exported a light red wine known as claret to England and throughout France. It was less intense than modern Bordeaux but had a bright, fruity taste, pairing perfectly with duck, game roasts, and cheese.
➤ Athos, with his melancholic nature, would likely choose a deep red Bordeaux, seeing in it a reflection of his own fate: astringency, depth, and a hint of sorrow.
→ Burgundy (Pinot Noir & Gamay)
Burgundy was already famous, its vineyards carefully nurtured by Cistercian monks. Burgundian wines were soft and aromatic with notes of berries.
➤ Aramis, who valued refinement in all things, might prefer a harmonious Burgundy — light, almost spiritual.
→ Loire Wines
The Loire Valley produced white wines from Chenin Blanc and light reds. These wines were prized for their freshness, perfect with poultry and fish.
➤ d’Artagnan, the young Gascon, could have ordered a Loire white to highlight the flavor of roasted duck or fish.
→ Gascon Wines (Armagnac)
d’Artagnan’s homeland, Gascony, was renowned not only for its wines but also for Armagnac, a strong distillate dating back to the 15th century. It was sipped from small glasses, first as medicine, then as a warming drink.
➤ Porthos would never refuse a shot of Armagnac “for appetite” — and then another “for courage.”
→ Spanish Wines (Sherry)
Taverns might also offer a foreign treat: Spanish sherry, popular in France thanks to trade links.
➤ For the Musketeers, such a choice could appear “for variety,” especially if the innkeeper was enterprising.
→ To end the meal: a sweet wine such as Muscat, or an herbal liqueur.
…Alexandre Dumas and the Art of Dining
🤖 Dumas wrote about cuisine with as much passion as he wrote about duels and love. For him, a meal was a continuation of the novel: every dish had its own character, wine had its soul, and the feast had a plot in which every guest played a role.
He considered his monumental “Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine” his greatest literary work, not the Musketeers’ adventures.
— I wish to conclude my five-hundred-volume literary career with a book on cuisine,” —he said. And he did.
The dictionary was a hymn to bonne chère — the art of generous, thoughtful dining, steeped in the culture of 18th–19th century French feasts.
Dumas believed:
• Food and wine reveal character as much as swords or love affairs.
• Gastronomy is a cultural marker — wine, the ultimate measure of civilization.
• Meals should be harmony, not just nourishment.
“If gastronomy is the measure of cultural and social differences, wine is the standard by which the degree of a nation’s civilization is measured. Wine reveals people of reason.”
— Alexandre Dumas, Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine
★ Tavern as a Stage for Character
For the Musketeers, the tavern was not merely a place to rest. It was a gastronomic stage where each hero revealed his character through his drink:
→ Athos — red Bordeaux, reflecting his noble melancholy.
→ Aramis — elegant white, a sign of refinement.
→ Porthos — Armagnac or brandy, “for strength and joy”.
→ d’Artagnan — light Gascon or Loire white, a symbol of youth and energy.
A glass of wine told the geography of France — and the souls of the Musketeers.
★ Did the Musketeers Get Drunk?
Though Dumas often describes the atmosphere of wine and feasts, there are almost no scenes where the Musketeers drink to oblivion. His world is romantic and heroic — the Musketeers are always alert, ready for adventure. Morning scenes begin with duels, journeys, and intrigues, not hangovers.
For Dumas, the Musketeer’s life is a constant balance: drink, eat, laugh — and by dawn, back in the saddle.
• Wine as friendship: taverns, inns, and friends’ homes become places for shared cups, rituals of camaraderie rather than drunkenness.
• Porthos loves to eat and drink — Dumas shows this humorously, not as vice.
• Athos is the only one portrayed as a “thoughtful drinker,” finding solace in wine during moments of inner turmoil.
• Aramis drinks moderately, in line with his character.
• d’Artagnan is passionate about events, not alcohol, and drinks without excess.
★ Wine as the Cultural Code of 17th-Century France
In 17th-century France, wine was not a luxury — it was life itself. Safer than water, it quenched thirst, energized, and was woven into the culinary fabric. For the Musketeers, a glass of wine was not indulgence but norm: to share friendship, to end the day, to fuel conversation.
In Dumas’s world, wine inspires, not destroys; strengthens, not weakens.
For them, wine was what coffee is for us today: a companion of life, not an event.
★ The Musketeers and the “French Paradox”
They ate fat, fried, and spicy foods, washed down with wine — breaking every modern dietary rule. And yet they stayed lean, agile, and always ready for battle — the living embodiment of the “French Paradox.”
►Why?
→ 17th century diet — natural food, no excess sugar or processed ingredients.
→ Lifestyle — constant motion, duels, riding, travel.
→ Literary convention — Dumas’s heroes are idealized; even Athos never loses his poise.
→ Wine culture — they drank often, but it was weak, often diluted, and never in excess.
Porthos alone is described with hints of plumpness, yet this only adds to his charm and exuberance.
That’s the whole “French paradox” of the musketeers: they ate like kings but lived like warriors.
17th-Century Taverns: The World Between Road and Home
🤖 A tavern in the 1600s was more than lodging. It was warmth, a hot meal, and a glass of wine. Merchants, priests, and fugitives might share a table. News spread, deals were struck, secrets whispered — a tavern was where the road ended and home began.
→ Architecture: low stone or wooden buildings, thatched roofs, whitewashed walls, creaky shutters.
→ Interior: a large common room with long tables, benches, a massive stone hearth. Torches and oil lamps cast dancing shadows on walls decorated with hunting trophies, old swords, and shields.
→ Atmosphere: the air was filled with the aroma of roasting meat, fresh bread, and spilled wine, mingled with the smoke of the fire.
→ Guests: peasants discussed harvests, merchants haggled, soldiers told war stories. Sometimes a barrel organ player or minstrel would play, and sometimes drunken songs would be sung. The owner would walk between the tables, pouring wine and chatting with the regulars. He knew all the latest news and was happy to share it for a few coins.
→ Tips: payments in livres and sous, soldiers leaving promises of protection, Porthos tipping generously for a second mug “on the house.”
→ Was it profitable to run an inn?
On a busy road, yes! The flow of travelers ensured a steady income. The better the food and drink, the more often the same guests returned. Innkeepers often had connections with local authorities and the military for protection and stability.
Taverns were crossroads of smells, stories, and destinies — perfect homes for Dumas’s heroes, among voices and wine, with the road waiting just outside.
…Royal Banquet: Food as Theatre
🤖 At 17th-century royal courts, feasts were more than meals — they were performances. Every dish served was a stage prop, every cook and servant a director. Dishes astonished both in form and symbolism: roasted swans gilded with gold, towers of fruit, fountains of wine. At the table, status was a game, and food itself became an art, celebrating the host’s grandeur.
The Musketeers’ journeys didn’t end in roadside inns — ahead lay halls where supper turned into theatre. In taverns, everything was decided with a toast; in palaces, with whispers of intrigue. From the fire of the hearth, they stepped into the glow of chandeliers; from rough pitchers to crystal goblets.
What was served at the royal table?
• Appetizers: oysters, mussels, sole; game pâtés, terrines, cold meats; olives, almonds, fruit sauces.
• Main courses: roasted pheasants, peacocks, swans (sometimes only as decoration); venison with wine sauce; veal in cream, baked fish.
• Sides: green beans, artichokes, asparagus — rare luxuries; mushroom pies, chestnuts, baked apples.
• Desserts: pastries, candied fruits, almond cakes; marzipan, sweets, lemon sorbets; expensive spices (cinnamon, vanilla) in sweets.
• Wines: Burgundy and Bordeaux with meat; Loire whites with fish and poultry; sweet Malmsey or Muscat with desserts; herbal and spiced liqueurs to finish.
★ How did the Musketeers feel amidst this luxury?
• Athos sat calmly, drinking his Bordeaux, unfazed by the splendor.
• Aramis relished the refinement, charming the ladies with compliments and quotes.
• Porthos was delighted by abundance, tasting everything and praising the cooks.
• d’Artagnan felt slightly lost but enthusiastically ate and drank, keeping pace with his friends.
★ What does this tell us about the era?
Royal banquets were food theatre: dishes amazed both in taste and appearance. Wine flowed freely and was of high quality, unlike the sour drinks of roadside inns. The feast could last for hours, with toasts, speeches, and dancing.
The banquet ended, but with the wine came something more precious than gold — a secret mission. The king entrusted the Musketeers with a task on which France’s honor depended: to travel to London and retrieve the famous diamond studs. The palace wine was sweet, but the taste of the road called stronger. By dawn, they were already saddling their horses, ready to cross the Channel, trading French inns for English taverns.
English Taverns of the 17th Century through d’Artagnan’s Eyes
🤖 When d’Artagnan crossed the Channel and entered England, he found a different world. Even in the taverns, everything felt foreign: different smells, habits, people.
★ Atmosphere of an English tavern:
Buildings were massive, often two-storied, with dark wooden beams, low ceilings, and a stone fireplace always ablaze. Interiors were gloomier than in France: oak panels, dim candlelight, the scent of smoke, beer, and roasted meat. Patrons — merchants, sailors, soldiers, and some who clearly hid from the law. Dice games in the corner, a quarrel by the door ready to turn into a fight. These taverns were hubs of stories from all over the world.
How did they differ from French inns?
The atmosphere was harsher — fewer songs, more murmured conversations. A dominance of sailors and travelers made taverns centers of global gossip. Innkeepers kept strict order: in England, brawls were fined. For d’Artagnan, it was a new world: less charm, more raw strength and straightforwardness, yet full of unexpected friendships and deals shaping events.
★ What was eaten?
Unlike the refined French cuisine, English meals were simpler but heartier:
→ roasted beef, stewed lamb;
→ meat pies (steak & kidney pie);
→ fish — cod, herring, flounder;
→ vegetables — peas, cabbage, carrots, mostly boiled;
→ snacks — bread, cheese, pickles.
Seasonings were fewer: salt, pepper, a bit of vinegar. For a Gascon used to garlic and herbs, the food might have seemed bland but filling.
★ What was drunk?
The main drink was beer and ale, served in large foamy mugs. Wine was rare and expensive, offered only in upscale establishments. Cider was common in the south, and gin was just beginning its rise. For d’Artagnan, used to red wine pitchers, the first sip of English ale was surprising — thick, dark, bitter, yet invigorating.
★ How did each Musketeer react?
→ d’Artagnan ate a meat pie, washed it down with ale, thinking French bread was better and wine more aromatic.
→ Athos would have found solace in strong English cider.
→ Porthos, delighted by portion sizes, would have been ecstatic.
→ Aramis, after tasting the local beer, would have quietly remarked:
— Too simple, gentlemen, but it will do for the road.
France and England Today: Then and Now
🤖 From the 17th century to today, much has changed — yet the gastronomic spirit of both nations remains.
• France today: wine is still the centerpiece, though consumed less and more selectively. Bistros and restaurants serve exquisite dishes in small portions, emphasizing harmony of flavors. Bread, cheese, meat, and desserts remain staples, with quality above quantity. Meals are rituals — slow, nuanced, attentive to detail.
🤖 In France, wine and food are part of the art of living. Even in the 21st century, dinner remains an event.
• England today: the grim taverns of the 1600s are gone, replaced by lively pubs — still noisy but without duels and intrigue. Beer remains king, especially in pubs. These establishments, heirs to old inns, offer warmth, camaraderie, and hearty food. Traditional dishes — pies, roast beef, fish & chips — are served with a modern twist. Wine is common, gastronomy cosmopolitan, but in English hearts, beer stays a symbol of community.
🤖 In England, food is not a spectacle, but part of everyday life. Pubs are places for friendship and conversation over a pint of beer, not a cooking show.
♦ Conclusion
In the 21st century, France and England have preserved their culinary souls while growing closer. Pubs and bistros have replaced inns. And if the Musketeers found themselves in our time, they would feel at home anywhere there was a good glass of wine or a hearty pint of beer.
To be continued…
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